A worldly chef whose experience includes a stint at
a three-star Michelin kaiseki-style restaurant, Green's
menu spans multiple cultures, but rather than follow
culinary traditions to the letter, he goes his own way,
living outside the box when it comes to mixing and
matching ingredients or adding components to convert
familiar dishes into something compelling.
At Adelaide, everything — from apps to entrees,
sides to desserts — arrives at the table a recipient
of deep thought toward composition, flavor, and
balance. In the case of Green's beef tartare, a dish
done by the same old-school book 99 times out of
100, the app's one-percenter status is announced by
blankets of purple oyster flowers coating sourdough
toast points sporting aged beef, bound together in a
salty miso-eggplant aioli. The condiment is the key
to the luxurious richness of this best-of-quality dish.
Another standard, risotto, is delightfully complex
and anything but ordinary. Corn kernels and tiny
medallions of pickled baby corn provide texture
while a zesty sauce made from pineapples and
fermented Fresno chilis brings a profound, tingly
heat that's cooled by cheese crumbles. This bowl
of lava-textured arborio has so much going on that
it doesn't come across as a rice dish, but rather a
composed, multifaceted offering; the type of original
recipe one charts a course to enjoy again and again.
The answer to the question of whether shellfish and
berries can coexist is answered in a dish of seemingly
disparate items. Deeply seared scallops, tart house-
preserved blueberries, eggplant, Persian cucumber, and
shiso (Japanese mint) are presented in a salty, fermented
tomato broth. It's unlike any dish you're likely to have
come across and each bite is different and dependent on
<<
The large doors of Adelaide's dining
room that open to the outdoors take full
advantage of L'Auberge's ocean views
@ranchandcoast ranchandcoast.com
86 DECEMBER 2021 RANCH & COAST MAGAZINE
