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e drive to Palm Springs passes through agricultural areas made verdant by the record-breaking rain. In just over two hours I was in downtown PS, except it didn't look or feel anything like what I remembered. ere is a new vibrant energy along the main street, where many of the ubiquitous t-shirt shops and souvenir vendors have been replaced by chic boutiques and sidewalk cafes. I knew I wanted to stay near the spa, so I opted for a room at e Rowan. is five-year-old Kimpton property is often credited with launching Palm Springs' renaissance. Like most Kimptons, e Rowan is pet-friendly and guests are invited to a Sunset Social Hour daily that includes complimentary beer and wine. e hotel is also home to the only rooftop swimming pool and restaurant in the Coachella Valley. Both of these places offer panoramic views over the tops of palm trees all the way to the San Jacinto Mountains. A friend joined me for dinner at Four Saints on the roof, and over several hours we worked our way through the creative menu of modern American fare. e butternut squash soup with cayenne and pepitas was very good, but I thought the most memorable dish was the wild mushrooms with peach vinegar, anchovy butter, pecorino, and herbs. Four Saints is open for dinner Wednesday to Sunday and offers indoor and outdoor seating. detour destinations << ranchandcoast.com 50 MAY 2023 RANCH & COAST MAGAZINE THE ROWAN: PHOTO BY LAURE JOLIET LOVE LETTERS: PHOTO COURTESY OF ADAMS / HANSEN