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Deckman has spent more than a decade perfecting the pitch of his culinary voice in Baja, expanding on skillsets and lessons learned as a young chef working under noted European stalwarts including Paul Bocuse and Madeleine Kamman. And he's done so in an environment both rustic and romantic, stoking the flames of a workhorse grill that's the centerpiece of an open-air, dirt-floor kitchen. He cherishes that literal and figurative openness, the absence of walls as well as the sometimes-stifling nature of traditional restaurant setups. As much as he loves the life and the lifestyle he has carved out for himself south of the border, Deckman has long yearned to operate a restaurant in San Diego. After spending the past eight years searching for an ideal location in which to do so, one presented itself in the bustling North Park community at 3131 University Avenue. Formerly home to the short-lived Hoxton Manor, the 2,500-square-foot space had a lot to offer, namely intimate shotgun dining room environs like one might find in New York City, and a quaint rooftop bar. e only thing it lacked was a means for the kitchen team to view the dining room and vice versa. To cure that culinary claustrophobia, Deckman blew out a wall, creating an open kitchen with diner-esque seating. at area's leather-bound half-back barstools have since become prime perches for watching Deckman and his team (which includes his son-turned-sous, Sam) at his first-ever U.S. venture, the five-months-young 31 irtyOne by Deckman's. An inauspicious frontage gives way to a small, simple dining room with cream-colored walls, soft-toned wood, and brass accents. A retro Spotify playlist and the convivial buzz of patrons cement the old-school dinner club vibe, where everyone has the spotlight thanks to a mounted mirror running along the top of the west wall. Tilted just so, it allows Deckman and his crew to keep tabs on diners. It's sneaky, smart, and — bonus — allows for views of others' artfully plated dishes. Following the established eco-friendly ethos of its chef-owner (and host of the new Amazon Prime docuseries, Ingrediente: Mexico), 31 irtyOne sources proteins and ingredients from purveyors within drivable distance of the restaurant. at extends to the beverage program, with a wine list made up of selections ranging from Valle de Guadalupe up to California's Central Coast, beers hailing from San Diego and Ensenada breweries, and house cocktails focusing heavily on agave spirits. Produce is the pride of local farmers, and much of the abundance of seafood coloring the menu is landed by local and nearby fishing operations. is includes various Baja oysters (Kumiai, Pai Pai, Chingon) served on the half shell with pink peppercorn mignonette, meaty sardines uplifted by the acid of a boquerones-style vinegar cure, and whole-roasted San Diego rockfish. All the above are among à la carte appetizers and larger items from a "to share" section that Indulge dining includes a 24-ounce dry-aged beef ribeye as well as risotto with black cod (available with white truffle on request). First-time visitors seeking the broadest sample of Deckman's style will be best served ordering a four-course prix-fixe option. A starter of bigeye tuna is a harbinger of things to come with its generous serving size and accoutrements that make for an incredibly well- rounded offering. Crispy Monterey Bay seaweed and saline sea beans are as effective in conveying the dish's aquatic flavor profile as a plump, buttery lobe of uni. e latter is cut nicely by a fruity Arroyo Grande Albariño-Sauvignon Blanc blend served as part of the optional beverage pairing. Decadence and bold flavors, hallmarks of Deckman's stateside offerings, are exemplified by a second-course standout. Calamari and raviolo filled with smooth tilefish mousse nesting an oozy egg yolk are served in an incredibly rich broth sporting a texture between gumbo and demi-glace. Made from veal, squab, and more, its meatiness is countered by rolled ribbons of pickled leeks. It's an example of what Deckman terms "alternative surf-and-turf," another of which comes in the form of exotic monchong with braised oxtail. << ranchandcoast.com 54 JANUARY 2025 RANCH & COAST MAGAZINE