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A highlight of the prix-fixe mains is a game bird preparation in which quail (or squab on the evening I visited) is separated into perfectly cooked segments and arranged as part of one of the most beautiful plates in the county. Served with red kuri squash prepared three ways (charred mezzalunas, tart pickled strips, silky purée), golden- browned chanterelle mushrooms, Brussels sprouts, and fried sage leaves, it's an entrée that promotes sampling a different forkful with each bite. e best part of this self-guided tour is that there is no wrong combination. e dish is wintry in its earthy, warming appeal and positively scrumptious. 31 irtyOne's bill of fare changes with great frequency based on whimsy, seasonality, and the availability of ingredients. It's meant to be fluid, but constants like conscientious sourcing, creativity, and adept cookery help ensure a quality experience no matter what hits the table. It may have taken longer than most would have liked for this toque to unleash his talent north of the border — including Deckman himself — but he has arrived, and San Diego's dining scene is all the better for it. the3131.com Service: Timeliness: Ambience: Culinary Innovation: Food Quality: Wine List: Cocktail Program: Value: Golden Forks OPPOSITE 31ThirtyOne is co-owned by Chef-Farmer Drew Deckman (photographed) together with his wife and business partner Paulina Deckman TOP LEFT Spiny Lobster, Cranberry Shelling Beans, Matsutake Mushroom BOTTOM LEFT An open kitchen faces diner-esque seating that serves as prime perches for watching Deckman and his team BELOW California Squab, Red Kuri Squash, Chanterelles, Sage @ranchandcoast RANCH & COAST MAGAZINE JANUARY 2025 55