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Communion's kitchen is helmed by Executive Chef Mike Moritz, formerly of fine-dining stalwarts Mille Fleurs and Mister A's, who is reveling in the carte blanche extended to him by owner Jacquee Renna Downing (Pacifica Seafood, La Quinta Cliffhouse, and previously Pacifica Del Mar). His youthful enthusiasm is palpable as he discusses recipe development and humblebrags that he's introduced so many dishes since the restaurant's November debut that the menu on its website is perpetually outpaced. It's not frivolous creation for the sake of being prolific, but instead a freewheeling form of R&D — and it's worked. Along the way, items created on a whim have been so well received they've become mainstays on a menu composed largely of dishes meant to be shared. Case in point: Moritz's take on ailand's answer to hot-and-sour, Tom Yum soup. Served with sea bass poached to tender, moist perfection in coconut milk, it's stocked with plump tomatoes and snappy beech mushrooms, delivering soulful spice and refreshing acidity. ai is just one of a multitude of wide-ranging cultural influences coloring Communion's menu. Lamb Lollipops are crusted with za'atar (a blend of sumac and dried spices) and served with vadouvan curry yogurt, and the accoutrements for a roasted rack of pork include salsa negra (Oaxacan-style mole sans chocolate), mango pico de gallo, and, veering away from Mexico, coconut rice. Spanish and Italian influences dovetail in an octopus appetizer that's far more than standard blackened tentacles served with a lemon wedge and a sprinkle of chopped parsley. Moritz's crisped octopus is sliced into tender-centered medallions dotted with earthy saffron aioli atop a briny squid-ink risotto with a hint of citrusy acid. It's a complete and satisfying dish. Seasonality is a cornerstone of Communion's approach, meaning Spiny Lobster à la Plancha or persimmons with pomegranate vinaigrette may be absent on the bill of fare on a given evening or time of year based on the availability of ingredients. But it's a fair trade-off for the freshness of dishes like Peas and Artichokes. A salad mounted atop English pea hummus, it's gussied up with marinated artichokes, yuzu dressing, and Parmigiano aged for 18 months, but the showstoppers are pea pods sliced down the middle to reveal the garden-fresh, verdant pearls within. Indulgences include Kaluga Caviar on buckwheat blinis, baked phyllo-wrapped triple-cream brie, Wagyu Beef Carpaccio, and a 45-ounce porterhouse with whipped bone marrow butter. But in terms of technique, plenitude, and value-for-dollar, the entrée standout is a duo of duck. is plate of riches (and richness) includes two seared dry-aged duck breasts fanned out over twin islets of vanilla-infused celeriac purée surrounded by a cassis reduction with broccolini and asparagus, plus confit leg meat stuffed into eggroll-like cigars. At $50, it's a modern-day steal. On the other end of the omnivore spectrum, Communion's vegan- and vegetarian-friendly mains are more than mandatory Indulge dining << ranchandcoast.com 50 FEBRUARY 2025 RANCH & COAST MAGAZINE