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afterthoughts. e restaurant opened with a beet "filet" that, served with a mushroom-based "bordelaise," was convincing enough in its beefiness to be sent back by meat abstainers. Moritz has since transitioned to a curried cauliflower steak with shishito peppers and pickled shallots, and has an eggplant innovation in the works. e gluten-averse are also well represented, if not championed, most notably by pastry chef Aly Lyng (George's at the Cove). Everything on her dessert menu is gluten-free, including a Basque cheesecake with salted caramel, sticky apple cake, and e Ritual, a flourless chocolate tart layered with espresso ice cream, hazelnut pralines, and condensed-milk ice. Rounding out Communion's offerings is a beverage program highlighted by cocktails taking traditional tipples into uncharted territory. A twist on the Boulevardier called "Eternal Path" ups the oak factor of Storyhouse rye and brings in fruitiness with cherry- infused Campari and cherry vanilla bark bitters, while a martini gets an overhaul care of a coconut three ways — a fat wash, flavored gin, and a pandan-blended infusion — in a drink called "Shatki" that's exotic yet still plenty assertive. ose looking for something both different and food-friendly would do well to order the "Sherry Sherry Lady." A combination of saloon-strength brandy, three varieties of sherry, lemon, and a shrub combining rooibos tea, blackberry, and thyme, it's refreshing yet bold with flavors of caramel, red grape, apple, and cinnamon, which finishes like iced tea. It's clear a great deal of thought and care went into every phase of Communion, a level of attention not seen often enough. Its sky-high locale seems fitting, indeed. 619.606.5568, dinecommunionsd.com Golden Forks Service: Timeliness: Ambience: Culinary Innovation: Food Quality: Wine List: Cocktail Program: Value: OPPOSITE LEFT Communion Executive Chef Mike Moritz CENTER Perched high above the city, with sweeping views of the San Diego coastline, Communion's interior features an ivory fabric ceiling providing whimsical "cloud cover" BELOW Local Yellowtail Crudo and Baked Triple Cream @ranchandcoast RANCH & COAST MAGAZINE FEBRUARY 2025 51