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Bacon Mac 'n Cheese, and Wagyu Meatballs with silky roasted garlic potatoes and a bourbon cream sauce. For people of a certain age, that last one brings back all the retro feels of — and I say this in the most respectful, least ironic manner possible — a Swanson's Salisbury steak TV dinner. Beefy, salty, and satisfying, they're an absolute delight. (Note: Sunday is $19.60 TV Dinner Night at Rustic Root, so there could be something to this.) e star of the mains is a lobster pappardelle in which the sweetness of the shellfish dovetails with that of corn kernels, basil, and oven-roasted tomatoes. A dash of Espelette pepper adds some amplifying zing. For the red meat contingent, there's a signature burger with bacon jam and a sunny-side-up egg, Filet Frites with blue-cheese butter and Parmesan fries, New England Steak Tips, or the big splurge, a 28-day-aged 16-ounce ribeye with potato gratin and a Cabernet reduction. While Rustic Root has largely gone with the tried-and-true menu from its original location (including a simple dessert menu that includes a tableside build-your-own ice cream sundae option), the aforementioned pot pie and a sage-brined Kurobuta pork chop with a verjus reduction are Solana Beach exclusives. Chef Diaz says more new dishes will be introduced once his team finds their footing, but with nightly packed houses and raves from first-round patrons, it seems Rustic Root has already hit its stride seaside. 858.381.4800, rusticrootsd.com OPPOSITE LEFT 28 Day Aged Ribeye OPPOSITE RIGHT The restaurant's eclectic interiors feature rolling pins, muffin tins, plates, and platters affixed to the steel-blue walls and ceiling LEFT Lobster Pappardelle with "Lavendar Haze" BELOW Rustic Root Chef de Cuisine Alex Diaz Golden Forks Service: Timeliness: Ambience: Culinary Innovation: Food Quality: Wine List: Cocktail Program: Value: @ranchandcoast RANCH & COAST MAGAZINE MARCH 2025 67