Read Ranch & Coast Virtually Anywhere
Issue link: http://ranchandcoast.uberflip.com/i/1537919
A half-dozen entrées are headlined by sea fare. White wine- braised northern halibut gets added acidity from blistered Sun Gold tomatoes, while the skin of a kanpachi (greater amberjack) filet is beautifully crispy with a hint of char and served in a mushroom dashi with porcinis and black summer truffles, making for an industrial-strength umami bomb. Heartier mains include a 12-ounce prime ribeye with truffle butter and an onion tart, rack of lamb with corn polenta and mint gremolata, and a duo of duck. e latter (one of Crosson's keepers from the previous menu) includes slices of well-rendered breast in a sweet duck jus, but the real treat is a crispy-skinned, confit leg that tastes homey and altogether soul-warming. Also impressive is tender farro wrapped in braised greens à la Greek stuffed grape leaves, making something intriguing out of a grain that can sometimes come across as being rather boring. Similar inventiveness is applied to a restaurant staple that's oft discounted on its face: the non-chocolate dessert option. It's hard to pass up a salted caramel chocolate tart (and it's OK if you can't…I mean, c'mon), but those who opt for the green forest cake are in for a pleasant surprise. A riff on Bavaria's Black Forest cake, this revelation seals matcha mascarpone and espresso- laced sponge cake inside a pistachio-studded shell. Light and refreshing, that celadon green bar is accompanied by cherry in three splendored forms: raw, compote, and ice cream. Created as the final course for a recent wine dinner, this endnote was such a hit that it was added to the everyday roster. "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" is reliable advice, but A.R. Valentien's kitchen expansion proves that there's nothing wrong with building upon something that works exceptionally well. 858.777.6635, lodgetorreypines.com/ar-valentien OPPOSITE TOP Northern Halibut in Saffron Broth, Coriander, Lightly Pickled Costata Romanesco OPPOSITE BOTTOM Squash Blossom Donut, Zucchini Honey Sauce LEFT Vanilla Bean Cheesecake, Lemon Almond Sponge Cake, Graham Cracker Crumble, Strawberry Sorbet BELOW A.R. Valentien Chef de Cuisine Tiffany Tran, Executive Chef Kelli Crosson, and Pastry Chef Jessica Scott Golden Forks Service: Timeliness: Ambience: Culinary Innovation: Food Quality: Wine List: Cocktail Program: Value: @ranchandcoast RANCH & COAST MAGAZINE AUGUST 2025 63