the proportions of each ingredient on the fork, making
for something fun and, once again, unique.
A grilled octopus dish could seem pedestrian by
comparison were it not for another infusion of Green's
imagination. Dragging slices of a soft, well-charred
tentacle through an accompanying romesco and black
sesame condiment produces a taste sensation similar to
douchi (fermented black bean paste)-adorned Chinese
food. Similarly, filet mignon is amplified by dry-aging
and a coating of miso, rosemary, and garlic butter, then
taken to even greater heights by a chutney made with
chilis and black garlic.
Avocado-studded ahi poke delivers tried-and-true
flavors, but wavy puffed koshihikari rice pillows stand
in for tortilla chips. Rendered onyx by squid ink, they
work with seaweed to veer this starter's flavor profile
into Japanese territory. A salad of prosciutto and melon
is elevated with creamy burrata, pistachios, and a French
heirloom melon sourced from SoCal's Weiser Family
Farms that tastes like a honeydew-cantaloupe hybrid.
Carrots are rubbed in achiote and given both texture and
autumnal flavor with house-made granola, earthiness
from a tahini crema, and a bright lift from fresh mint.
Having arrived following a resort-wide overhaul this
spring, Adelaide is a relative newcomer to Del Mar's
dining scene. If Green keeps conceiving dishes that
are not only daring but as successful as those on
his current menu, he will carve a lasting place for
the restaurant in the beachside burg and the hearts
of local epicures. 858.793.6467, laubergedelmar.com
BRANDON HERNÁNDEZ
Service:
Timeliness:
Ambience:
Culinary Innovation:
Food Quality:
Wine List
Beer List:
Craft Cocktail Program:
Value:
Golden Forks
Executive Chef Nick Green
ranchandcoast.com @ranchandcoast
RANCH & COAST MAGAZINE DECEMBER 2021
87
