Ranch & Coast Magazine

Annexing the space long occupied by Prepkitchen Del Mar (which closed at the onset of the pandemic) wasn't the only in-house growth. In doing so, Cevasco lured his wife, Guenevere, the longtime GM at Eddie V's (where Cevasco was managing partner for nearly a decade before leaving to open Beeside) to oversee their double-decked dual interests. Both hail from the East Coast, where Italian food often manifests as mountains of liberally sauced pasta. Understanding that a significant percentage of diners in and around their coastal community adore big flavor but abhor carb bombs, they set out to appeal to that clientele. A pair of crudos delivers well-married flavors in a lightweight package. in-sliced scallops are dressed with mango, radish, and pickled cucumber, while spicy Fresno chile (red jalapeño) match the saltiness of a (definitively un-Italian) ponzu for yellowtail tuna (hamachi). Oysters and littleneck clams are available on the half shell alongside a shrimp cocktail. And salads abound, ranging from the kale-and-pancetta Toscana and a classic Caesar to a burrata-based Caprese and a warm chèvre-and-arugula option. Even heartier apps like home-style beef-and-pork meatballs in house-made barbecue sauce (which pairs exceptionally well with an almond-infused Old Fashioned from the cocktail menu) are served in manageable portions and augmented by sweet and tangy roasted peppers, priming one for what's to come. ose meaty, herb-packed spheres also make a cameo in Cevasco's Spaghetti alla Bolognese. For those who feel no Italian feast is complete without bread, order it grilled with olive tapenade butter, Parmesan, and herbed dipping oil, or topped with tomatoes, mozzarella, and an aged balsamic. It also accompanies a charcuterie board stocked with prosciutto, soppressata, soft robiola cheese, and truffle honey; an Italiano iteration of an offering that's a proven hit upstairs. Il bordo isn't the only riff on a Beeside staple. A scallop entrée with pancetta and a star anise-spiked carrot purée is deliciously reminiscent of a similar scallop dish from the progenitor featuring chorizo and mango-citrus sauce. Indulge dining << RIGHT Cevasco's serves modern Italian cuisine in the heart of Del Mar Village BOTTOM RIGHT Chef/owner Christophe Cevasco BOTTOM LEFT Alaskan Halibut Piccata @ranchandcoast ranchandcoast.com 52 MARCH 2022 RANCH & COAST MAGAZINE

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