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A third of the way through the meal is when the rulebook goes out the window with bread service — a round loaf of ancient- grain sourdough with cultured seaweed butter, which is served with a unique ancient-grain pilsner from Napa's Hanabi Lager Co. with the beverage pairing. Next up…sauternes? It must be foie gras time. Wrong. Looking to prove the versatility of Château d'Yquem's archetypal sweet wine, Arizmendi sends out a cube of pressed chicken breast and leg meat wrapped in deeply seasoned skin and served in a decadent, coating jus with plump Muscat raisins. e sweetness of the latter creates a bridge to the sauternes in what is perhaps the best dish on the current menu, the bold meatiness of which is only exceeded by medium-rare ribeye with broccolini, turnips, vibrant green parsley purée, and sauce anchoïade (a Provençal meat jus fortified with anchovy). During a ninth-course stretch, guests are welcomed to the pass to speak with a member of the kitchen team while enjoying a seasonal beverage, such as pluot juice mixed with Earl Grey tea spirit and topped with green shiso foam to simulate the texture of an egg-white cocktail. Back at the table, seasonally driven desserts are brought out. On the night I visited, a baba cake soaked in champagne (as opposed to the traditional rum) was plated with multiple forms of Granny Smith apple (poached, crisped, butter) and Chantilly cream, followed by what has become one of Lucien's signature dishes: eggplant ice cream with Asian pear, tapioca, black cardamom foam, and soy anglaise. Soft in every sense, the latter resets the palate as the meal winds down versus sending one home in sugar shock. New dishes are rotated into Lucien's menu based on what is in season, as well as what purveyors and Arizmendi are enthused about, so the bill of fare is fluid, but the above is representative of what one can expect. Regardless of what hits the table, be assured that it will have been preceded by a great deal of thought, from ingredients to concept to cookery to plating (the restaurant's ceramic vessels were crafted by Arizmendi's mother and glazed by his father). Every fine detail of Lucien has been fretted and fussed over. After all, that's what you do when you're going for a Michelin star. luciensd.com OPENER Mignardises OPPOSITE TOP Lucien's exclusive 30-seat dining room features sea-blue walls and a trio of banquettes OPPOSITE BOTTOM Thornyhead, Seaweed, N25 Kaluga Hybrid Caviar LEFT Chef Elijah Arizmendi BELOW Pluot, palate cleanser Golden Forks Service: Timeliness: Ambience: Culinary Innovation: Food Quality: Wine List: Cocktail Program: Value: CHEF ELIJAH ARIZMENDI: PHOTO BY MELANIE DUNEA COCKTAIL: PHOTO BY KIMBERLY MOTOS @ranchandcoast RANCH & COAST MAGAZINE NOVEMBER 2025 59

