Ranch & Coast Magazine

September 2026

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We arrived in Genoa (or Genova, as the rest of the world calls it) by train at the bustling Genoa Piazza Principe station. ough it is apparently the sixth largest city in Italy, it feels much smaller, and it's just a short five- to ten-minute taxi ride to the epicenter of the city. We had barely pulled away from the curb before our driver reminded us that Genoa was once the maritime capital of the world — pride for its esteemed place in history runs deep here. We stayed at the Hotel Bristol Palace, a five-star historic hotel directly on Via XX Settembre (pronounced Via Venti Settembre), a busy thoroughfare that connects the Piazza De Ferrari to the west with Piazza Della Vittoria to the east. Opened in 1905, this strikingly beautiful hotel has welcomed dignitaries and celebrities and it's been a witness to history. It was occupied by the Nazis, who established the hotel as the headquarters of the German command in the region during WWII. Entering from the street, there's little more than friendly doormen in uniform before a revolving door to mark the hotel's entrance. Inside, however, its central, elliptical staircase is a staggering work of beauty that culminates in breathtaking stained glass at its peak, and the atmosphere throughout seamlessly blends timeless Belle Époque grandeur with contemporary luxury. Beyond the doors of Hotel Bristol Palace, all of Genoa is just steps away. Via XX Settembre is lined with familiar stores from Max Mara to Zara, beckoning shoppers to stroll the arcades for retail therapy. Just blocks toward the water, however, a trove of landmarks offer a fascinating look at the heart of this incredible city. We began with a visit to the home of Christopher Columbus, Genoa's favorite son. Small and unassuming, you'd expect it to be swarming in tourists, but herein lies the beautiful surprise that is Genoa: even in the height of summer travel season, nothing here is overly crowded. No sellouts, no timed tickets, no missed opportunities. It patiently awaits exploration, with ample space to soak it in without jostling crowds. Just beyond Columbus' home, we drifted up through Porta Soprana, the gateway into the main part of the city marked by distinctive Romanesque twin towers, then on to the Chiesa del Gesu dei Santi Ambrogio e Andrea, a church with roots dating back to the sixth century whose modest exterior opens to intricate architectural detail and artwork by masters that would be just as suited to hang in the halls of the world's great museums. at we visited during a service added gravity to the already powerful setting. Steps away is the Palazzo Ducale, or Doge's Palace, where you can explore the site's history, sip coffee in its café, or view world- class art exhibitions, and we leapt at the opportunity to explore a comprehensive collection of work by Anton van Dyck while we were there. Afterward, a continued walk toward the water led us to Genoa Cathedral, which famously escaped destruction in WWII when it was hit by a bomb that failed to explode. At the waterfront, it's worth a visit to the famous Aquarium of Genoa, one of the largest aquariums in all of Europe. It's an institution worthy of its esteemed reputation, but once our visit was over, we found there was far more to see moving inward, back toward our hotel. A ten-minute walk away are the Palazzo Rosso detour destinations << ranchandcoast.com 96 SEPTEMBER 2026 RANCH & COAST MAGAZINE

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