Ranch & Coast Magazine

December 2022

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(though the mint aioli from an artichoke contorni makes for a brilliant condiment). A half chicken with blistered tomatoes and line-caught fish of the day with fennel, capers, and olives also round out the highlights. As succulent and show-stopping as the hearth entrees are, Marisi's handmade pasta dishes are where the kitchen shines brightest. Rustic ribbons of pappardelle are coated in duck ragu (one of a trio of slow-braised sauces that also includes pork and lamb iterations) that comes across like a warming hug. Breadcrumbs flavored with bottarga (salted and pressed Sardinian grey mullet roe) lend texture and added oceanic nuance to clams and gemelli dressed in smoked brown butter. Rigatoni in tomato sauce and a guanciale-studded adaption of cacio e pepe are also on the menu, but if there's a must- have, it's the spaghettoni with sea urchin. A delicacy that's typically singled out and left to stand on its own merits, uni is traditionally underutilized as an ingredient, but not in this dish. It's not precious, it's bold; a full-on sea urchin immersion with a plump, unctuous lobe sitting atop al dente noodles in an uni butter so rich it has mac-and-cheese vibes. Add in verdant piquancy from chives and it's the stuff of dreams as well as one of the finest uni dishes anywhere. Even this early on, Marisi is firing on all cylinders, likely the result of the two-year lead-up to its opening. Key staff put that time to good use, developing recipes, sourcing libations, developing a game plan, and making lots and lots of limoncello. e result is a young restaurant with the polish of a fresh-off-the-lot Ferrari. 858.401.6787, marisilajolla.com BRANDON HERNÁNDEZ Service: Timeliness: Ambience: Culinary Innovation: Food Quality: Craft Cocktail Program: Wine List: Value: Golden Forks LEFT Colorful tiled flooring extends from the expansive outdoor patio toward the indoor bar area adorned with a tulle-draped chandelier BELOW 111-seat Marisi features intimate seating inside ranchandcoast.com @ranchandcoast RANCH & COAST MAGAZINE DECEMBER 2022 99

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