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in a manner that's more factory-like, with no artisanal fishing. Sustainable seafood is, in my opinion, the harvesting of good healthy stocks in a manner that is non-destructive to the ocean or fish habitat, and if there's a bycatch, then we need to market that bycatch rather than literally kick the fish over the side because nobody wants to eat it, which is ridiculous." Of course, variances in practices between small, local fishermen and large, international fishing entities impact not just what's on the menu but how much it costs — a trade-off Gomes believes we should be willing to make. If it's about budget, buy less, but buy better. Summarizes Gomes, "I say it on my TV show all the time: Good seafood's not cheap, and cheap seafood's not good." "Sustainability guarantees that the fishermen will have something to fish next year, the year after that, ten years from now, in a generation," adds Encinitas resident and owner of Washington, D.C.-based ProFish seafood company, Glenn Casten. "On the wild side, that's why it's so important to me and our industry." However, according to Casten, complicating matters is that while some of the work of protecting the ocean for its future health is accomplished by regulations dictating the timing, quantity, and methods of bringing in seafood, the rules governing commercial fishing can also be influenced by economic forces, in addition to creating challenges that can be "moving goal posts," as Gomes puts it. e transparency that comes with supporting local fisherman can be one way to address this, while also offering the Indulge dining << Glenn Casten, owner of ProFish seafood company ranchandcoast.com 36 JANUARY 2023 RANCH & COAST MAGAZINE