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gremolata spiked with Calabrian peppers. Large, toothsome white beans are joined on the plate with salty lamb bacon and eggplant, which once again plays a masterful supporting role, adding depth and a compatible counterpart for the other ingredients. More straightforward, and absolutely delicious, is king salmon given Wellington treatment with a thin, buttery sheath of puff pastry, foraged mushroom duxelles, and an airy béarnaise sauce. Many Mister A's menu items can be made vegan-friendly on request and the majority are gluten-free by design. e latter stems from Executive Pastry Chef Amy Simpson's use of alternative flours, but that's far from her only influence and impact. Simpson's rotating takes on Baked Alaska are impressive and inventive. e current version features a blondie base and dulce de leche ice cream beneath a Swiss meringue cloche. And even something as simple as a cream puff registers as skillful and to-die-for, in this case thanks to perfect, exteriorly crisped pâte à choux and a bright, acidic passionfruit mousse. As has long been key to the high level of quality at Mister A's, Voitzwinkler and Simpson are working with thoughtfully sourced ingredients that are the best of the best. Doing so is commendable and, now more than ever, expensive, making it impressive that the restaurant's price points are on par with or lower than a good deal of its fine dining competitors. In bringing Mister A's into its next epoch, orsen and his crew have upheld its quality and reputation, not for the sake of vanity but for the venerable establishment's past, present, and future customers. asrestaurant.com OPPOSITE The most dramatic transformation at Mister A's has taken place in the bar, which has been refreshed, reconfigured to seat more guests, and raised to provide a better sightline for taking in Balboa Park and beyond LEFT Simultaneously crispy and creamy, Caviar Tater Tots are a must-have starter BELOW Chef Stéphane Voitzwinkler Golden Forks Service: Timeliness: Ambience: Culinary Innovation: Food Quality: Cocktail Program: Wine List: Value: @ranchandcoast RANCH & COAST MAGAZINE NOVEMBER 2023 51