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We are tourists too, of course, although we wanted to blend in more than some of our louder, more boisterous counterparts. Seeking a place in the sun while avoiding tourist crowds and cruise ship day trippers, we planned an extended stay to navigate the area without timelines and itineraries. Our explorations were to happen more naturally, sans tour guides holding little flags for their trailing groups of followers. Navigating the South of France e South of France refers to an area bigger than we initially understood, so we needed more pinpoint clarity. Provence includes charming towns like Avignon, Aix, Gordes, and Roussillon with their lavender fields, vineyards, and olive groves. e south also includes hilltop destinations that tumble toward the sea like Èze and Menton, part of the region lovingly called the French Riviera. For this visit, we specifically targeted an authentic coastal subset — the glistening, alluring Côte d'Azur fronting the Mediterranean Sea. We arrived by train from Marseille to Nice, an easy and smooth ride complete with reclining first-class seating options, Wi-Fi, and a view of the coast that reminded us of past trips on the Pacific Surfliner from L.A. to San Diego along our own Southern California beachfront tracks. Our desire was to live like the local Niçoise: in a rented 1800s-era flat with updated kitchen and bath, classic shuttered windows, and easy access to the town's corner cafés and street markets. From our roost in Nice, we could easily train to most of the popular destinations along the Côte d'Azur. And that we did, intermixed with lazy days spent wandering the medieval streetscapes, historic landmarks, and picturesque waterfront of Nice itself. Nice as a Home Base As a central access point for our adventures, Nice was the ideal home base. Not too big and not too small, Goldilocks would approve of the just-right size and orientation of this 370,000-citizen burg. Whether hotel or short-term rental is your vibe, I suggest picking something central to the waterfront and train station. From there, the rest was nearly effortless, despite our appalling lack of French language skills. (e locals are quite approachable and friendly.) Train to Everywhere Choosing Nice was a strategic move, because the central train station makes it simple to reach highlights along the Côte d'Azur, reaching Cannes, Monaco, Antibes, and even Italy within minutes. It was fun to sit among schoolkids with laden backpacks, elegant ladies carrying Louis Vuitton bags, and grumpy French gentlemen. Street Market Bounties e classic picnic experience is quickly attainable at several daily markets, where locals do their shopping for fresh produce and fruit. Grazing through the fresh seasonal stalls at the Liberation Market, we picked up tree-ripened cherries and apricots along with the sweetest, reddest strawberries. Nearby, we chose plump herbed olives and a freshly baked, crunchy baguette. Cheesemongers Extraordinaires On a leafy side street, we perused one of the local cheese shops to savor various wedges of sheep, goat, and cow's milk cheeses. e kind owner spoke little English, and we got by with hand gestures and a smile while he allowed us to sample options before deciding. Restaurants Galore With so many talented chefs within our grasp, touring the local restaurant scene was vastly successful. Breakfasts are simple here, and our goal was to sample as many cafés and croissants as a human being can comfortably consume. We planted ourselves at too-small café tables under striped awnings, crunching on flaky pastries and sipping frothy café au laits. For dinner, a global array of options serve heartier fare, from traditional Provençal detour destinations << ranchandcoast.com 88 JULY 2026 RANCH & COAST MAGAZINE