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I intentionally planned a visit to Oaxaca City because it is arguably Mexico's most elaborate display of Día de los Muertos. At the same time, I wanted to dig more deeply into Oaxacan culture, rich with history, art, food, and drink. So, I created an itinerary that offered more of what the whole state of Oaxaca has to offer. Día de los Muertos Is a Family Affair In Mexico, the Day of the Dead tradition has been building for nearly 3,000 years, rooted in Indigenous beliefs that the dead remain part of the family story. Over time, those customs evolved into today's Día de los Muertos celebrations, when families gather to remember loved ones who have passed, build ofrendas (altars) with their favorite foods and personal mementos, and welcome them back into the family for a brief visit on this one day. e mood is joyful, centered on life, family, and remembrance. On our first evening, my husband and I stepped outside our hotel in Oaxaca's Centro Histórico and quickly joined a lively procession moving through the streets. Babies rode on shoulders, grandparents kept pace, and smiles were everywhere. Giant skeleton puppets bounced above the crowd while costumed devils beat drums among families and friends in elaborate calavera makeup. Colorful paper flags stretched between decorated buildings, and brass bands kept the crowds high-stepping through the cobblestone streets. e entire Old City becomes one giant street festival, complete with face-painters, food vendors, artists, musicians, and entertainers of all kinds. e celebrations last for three nights each year, from October 31 to November 2. Oaxaca Day of the Dead: Beyond the City At Hotel Quinta Real Oaxaca, the celebration started before we even left the property. e hotel had face-painters working beneath its old stone arches, and we felt the tug to join in. ere is something about having your face painted like a colorful skull that apparently requires you to take an unreasonable number of selfies. I have the evidence. Graveyard Hopping Later that evening, still wearing our calavera-painted faces, we visited two cemeteries outside the city. is was when the meaning behind all the color and celebration came into sharper focus. Graves were elaborately covered with flower petals, candles, framed photos, and personal mementos. Families sat nearby talking and spending time together, listening to music, enjoying treats, and maintaining a connection with relatives who were gone by including them in the festivities. e spaces were filled with celebration and color, and we had never seen a cemetery feel so active and personal. Some graves were simple; others had clearly taken days of work. Visitors are welcome in these spaces, and we relied on smiles, nods, and good manners to keep a respectful distance while snapping a bazillion photos. detour destinations << ranchandcoast.com 116 OCTOBER 2026 RANCH & COAST MAGAZINE