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Launched in Arizona (the 48th state, hence the numeric nod), that model's progenitor has spawned satellites in Chicago; Philadelphia; Charlotte, North Carolina; Houston; just north of us in Beverly Hills, and now, America's Finest City. Since debuting in mid-October, Steak 48 has been packed with first-degree foodies angling to be among the first to experience the latest incarnation of this steakhouse sensation. But hype aside, how does Del Mar's butcher-cut slice of the Mastros' carnivore brainchild stack up to other local steakhouses? With a novella-length menu sporting Miyazaki A5 Wagyu, a 45-day dry-aged ribeye, and the beefy benchmark that is the serves-two tomahawk, plus a raw bar stocked with a gasp-worthy supply of lobster tails, colossal shrimp, West and East Coast oysters, and three grades of Osetra caviar, Steak 48 makes good on the steakhouse raison d'être of providing splurge-worthy delights and over-the-top luxury (just about anything can be topped with a jumbo lump crab cake if you so desire). And with 65 starters, salads, entrées, and sides (not including enhancements or desserts), there is plenty to choose from and far more than most traditional steakhouses — or restaurants, for that matter. at degree of variety is admirable, but what makes it worth the lengthy perusal is the creativity coloring it, which also goes beyond the industry standard. Case in point: chunks of lobster served escargot-style in a dimpled vessel with a rich gratineed mornay sauce and dollops of caviar. It's original and so ungodly delicious, it's challenging to wait for it to cool enough to consume. Lobster also gets the starter treatment chicken-fried and packed into grilled New England-style rolls with a side of green-chili aioli, while crispy shrimp crown Parmesan-graced deviled eggs. Steaks are aged 28 days, dusted with house seasoning, then blasted at 1,500 degrees before being shuttled to tables on screaming hot plates registering at a third of that massive temp. On the subtler side, tang and zip from lemon juice and Dijon mustard make for a unique dressing on a truly epic wedge salad, which is served with cold cutlery specifically for that course along with a choice of fine or coarsely ground black pepper. at's next-level and impressive. Sides — an important element of any steakhouse menu — channel the same innovation as Steak 48's starters. Classic creamed spinach is augmented by artichoke hearts, and the house mac-and-cheese can be ordered with king crab and rock shrimp. Either way you have the latter, it delivers the creamy texture of a certain blue-boxed product while imparting lovely flavor and saltiness from Parm, Romano, provolone, and what's listed on the menu as "a touch of Velveeta." And diners with a sweet tooth will appreciate a pair of sides on the saccharine end of the flavor spectrum: praline sweet potatoes with mascarpone and streusel, and creamed sweet corn topped with a layer of brûléed turbinado sugar that's cracked tableside. In an arena where size matters, the subject must be addressed. Steak 48 holds its own from start to finish, beginning at the bar. From generous pours of the 49 wines offered by the glass to king- sized martinis served milkshake-style with second-drink overage delivered in a chilled shaker tin, thou shalt not go thirsty. In the Indulge dining << ranchandcoast.com 106 DECEMBER 2023 RANCH & COAST MAGAZINE