Ranch & Coast Magazine

August 2023

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Page 57 of 99

Adorned with an eclectic array of furnishings and embellishments — ceramic-tiled tabletops, Japanese lanterns, bronze lighting fixtures, and a colorful mural running the length of the south wall — Paradisaea's dining room provides a feast for both the eyes and the stomach. Chic yet not overdone design is also a hallmark of a horseshoe-shaped, travertine-and-cast-glass bar anchored by a grand column packed with an impressive arsenal of spirits and liqueurs. ose liquid assets are put to clever use in a collection of signature drinks and creative spins on standards, all of which are detailed in a full-color, picture book-style menu that makes for a compelling page-turner. Japanese Nikka Coffey Grain Whisky, brown butter, Amaro, and mole bitters comprise the "Top Gun," a unique take on an Old Fashioned, while a cutting-edge machine creates carbonation akin to sparkling wine in a highball made with Toki (another whisky from the Land of the Rising Sun). A "Oaxacan Negroni" combines the sweet of ancestral corn liqueur with sourness and smokiness from tamarind-infused mezcal, while an authentic (egg white) whisky sour is given balance and depth from plum, bergamot, and Earl Grey tea. Custom glassware (Piña Colada), house-made macadamia-nut orgeat (Mai Tai), and charcoal ("Lobster Lounge") add flair to a collection of tropical libations that look right at home in Paradisaea's island-inspired environs. Any of Paradisaea's drinks can be had for $10 during happy hour, which takes place from 3 to 5pm Wednesday through Sunday, along with selections from well-curated wine and beer lists. With drinks taken care of, one can shift attention to the main event. Welker, a veteran of vaunted NYC operations Eleven Madison Park and NoMad, has devised a menu that's full of surprises. Rather than being coated in shredded palm fruit and deep-fried, the Coconut Shrimp appetizer presents four sizeable, skewered lemon-and- harissa marinated prawns alongside a creamy coconut-lime dipping sauce. An entrée of olive oil-poached sea bass has an element of unboxing with zesty ratatouille hidden inside a summer squash and a pepper stuffed with scallop purée. Reliable starters include a Jalapeño Caesar served with a literal "pile of Parmesan" and a brilliant fava bean hummus. e latter's garden-fresh greenness and bright citrus zing meld perfectly with the garlic notes of griddled, miso-infused focaccia bread. Other solid raw apps include West Coast Oysters with frozen passionfruit sangrita as well as a beet salad with sheep's milk yogurt and Chino Farms strawberries. Sherry-dressed tagliatelle with morel mushrooms is a seasonal standout, while al dente spaghetti served in a saffron uni condiment << ranchandcoast.com 58 AUGUST 2023 RANCH & COAST MAGAZINE

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