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topped with large lumps of Dungeness crab and richness-cutting Sungold tomatoes is a year-round indulgence. Both have been hits out of the gate, along with an Australian wagyu ribeye served with sauce au poivre and french fries. A similar peppery treatment can be applied to another fan favorite, an off-menu dry-aged cheeseburger served on a Portuguese muffin (with chilies and/or applewood- smoked bacon, if you please). Red meat mains are rounded out by a show-stopping 90-day dry- aged Aspen Ridge ribeye, and impressively marbled lamb loin served in an earthy Moroccan spice jus with tahini-eggplant purée and toasty, incredibly flavorful quinoa worth writing home about. Welker's extensive pastry experience is illustrated in the moist devil's food cake and luscious chocolate mousse making up a Dark Chocolate Pavé. It's the lead on a surprisingly short dessert roster featuring another all-star: a vanilla soft-serve sundae with shortbread fashioned with avocado blossom honey. Bringing fine dining to Bird Rock was the mission with Paradisaea, and its menu fits the bill. at said, Welker and his staff are playing loose and not taking themselves too seriously. As a result, there's an approachability that's important in a community where locals expect — if not require — all of their eateries to be downhome to some degree. 858.255.8011, paradisaea.com Golden Forks OPPOSITE TOP With a colorful mural running the length of the south wall, Paradisaea's dining room provides a feast for both the eyes and the stomach OPPOSITE BOTTOM Beef Tenderloin TOP LEFT Mark Welker, Paradisaea culinary director and executive chef BOTTOM LEFT White Baja Sea Bass BELOW Beet Salad Service: Timeliness: Ambience: Culinary Innovation: Food Quality: Cocktail Program: Wine List: Beer List: Value: RANCH & COAST MAGAZINE AUGUST 2023 59