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e river starts in the Rocky Mountains of British Columbia in Canada and ends in the Pacific Ocean — a distance of more than 1,250 miles. It's the largest river in the Pacific Northwest and the second largest in the U.S. It's also one of the most beautiful. If you saw Reese Witherspoon trudging along the Pacific Crest Trail with an enormous backpack in the 2014 movie Wild, you've seen the Columbia River, as the bridge over the river at Cascade Locks is part of the PCT. I have to confess that I hadn't done my homework for this trip, so during our time in the area, I experienced one pleasant surprise after another. e first "oh wow" was Multnomah Falls, which came into view only 30 miles east of Portland. is stunning waterfall cascades 620 feet down a sheer cliff face, making it the tallest waterfall of the 90 or so in the area. A word to the wise: Parking is restricted in this area during the busy summer season that runs from late May to early September, so it's worth considering shuttling to the falls. Taylor Marean at Waterfall Shuttle does a great job. In addition, e Historic Columbia River Highway offers a slower and more scenic alternative to Interstate 84. e highway, built between 1913 and 1922, is being restored, and visitors can drive, hike, and bike segments of it between Troutdale and e Dalles. Ten miles beyond Multnomah Falls, we encountered even more drama at the massive Bonneville Lock and Dam. I was nearly mesmerized by the thundering white water that is part of the largest hydroelectric system in the world. e visitor center here provides beautiful views of the Columbia River, and windows overlook the fish ladder that allows migrating fish safe passage around the dam. In contrast to the modern dam, our hotel in Hood River offers a throwback to a much earlier era. e Columbia Gorge Hotel & Spa was built in 1921 and great effort has gone into preserving its authenticity. e property, first described in the Lewis and Clark journals, was the site of a lumber mill in the mid-1800s that made staves for whiskey barrels carried by mules from Hood River to the east. In 1921, Oregon lumber magnate Simon Benson invited detour destinations << ranchandcoast.com 86 APRIL 2024 RANCH & COAST MAGAZINE BONNEVILLE LOCK AND DAM: PHOTO COURTESY OF ADAMS / HANSEN PHOTOGRAPHY