Ranch & Coast Magazine

November 2022

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Page 48 of 91

For those solely interested in "turf," there's a beef tartare dressed in fermented pineapple-mustard aioli with bone marrow butter and black truffle. And don't sleep on a dish of caramelized cylinders of king trumpet mushroom given salty umami character from a Korean kalbi-style marinade. Served in scallop shells and scored to closely resemble bivalves, they are far more than some mandatory vegan option. A sextet of Lounge cocktails straddles the line between tipple and high-end sipper. With rarified base liquors like Avion Reserve Extra Añejo tequila and ten-year WhistlePig rye, obscuring their inherent flavors would equate to mixology sacrilege. Hence, the "Deconstructed Margarita" subs orange bitters for sweet orange liqueur and downs the dosage of lime juice so the tequila's oak and cactus notes remain center stage, while the rye is laced with wagyu beef fat in an Old Fashioned topped with a smoke-gunned dome. at preservation of top-shelf spirits is commendable, especially at $20 to $35 per drink. Such pricing is consistent with the Lounge's wine offerings ($25 to $90 per glass of specialty and library wines) and the food menu (ranging from $18 for vegan scallops to $44 for the Surf & Turf ). Such an overtly high-priced concept conjures the highest of expectations, the type that can be hard to meet, yet Minor and his team deliver both creativity and quality. Not that coming in under would be a challenge, but there is a $100 minimum per person for those who partake in the Lounge experience. (A deposit is collected when one places their reservation.) ere is also a maximum — of two hours per party. So, time said reso for sunset, nurse that Old Fashioned, and get your money's worth. 858.459.7222, marineroom.com BRANDON HERNÁNDEZ Service: Timeliness: Ambience: Culinary Innovation: Food Quality: Craft Cocktail Program: Wine List: Value: Golden Forks LEFT Dry Aged Bluefin Tuna Carpaccio accompanied by "Oaxacan Nights" BELOW Spicy Tuna Cigars and Golden Tartare with a "WhistlePig Wagyu Old Fashioned" ranchandcoast.com @ranchandcoast RANCH & COAST MAGAZINE NOVEMBER 2022 49

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