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e job did not disappoint. Knibb was given carte blanche to run the restaurant his way, flex his creativity, and compose dishes free of micromanagement or approval from ownership. His mornings were spent visiting farms, forging relationships with producers, and selecting ingredients for that same day's service. It was the type of dream scenario most chefs yearn for. Yet, exhausted by the fast-paced perpetual grind of fashioning daily menus, Knibb wondered if he would be able to last very long in his new role. Fast-forward to present day, and Nine-Ten is celebrating a quarter-century on Prospect Street. at longevity is incredibly impressive. So, too, is the fact that Knibb is not only still there but enthusiastic and thriving after all these years. Not bad for a chef who initially thought he might be "one-and-done." So, what changed? A lot. "Having a different menu every day was difficult. I tried to run with it for a while, but it was hard to achieve consistency, and we really wanted stability," says Knibb. Determined to right the ship, he took a step back to reevaluate the manner in which he and his team operated. "We realized that, with the exception of hyper- seasonal items, most products stick around for a while, so there was no need to flip the menu as often as we were." Knibb decided to slow things down and develop new menus every three months, shifting with the seasons to showcase their timely offerings. Doing so allowed him to not only develop but also refine his dishes. After several months — with a solid menu and a team which had fully bought into his vision — he felt he was finally getting his feet under him. Regulars and critics agreed, as the restaurant began receiving steady patronage and scores of accolades behind dishes steeped in purpose and originality. "Nine-Ten's cuisine is market-driven and well-presented but not overly manipulated," says Knibb. "What's kept us moving forward over the years has been embracing more global flavors, and sometimes dipping into our cultural backgrounds to bring in some Latin, Asian, and Caribbean influences." A key example is a Jamaican jerk pork belly starter that Knibb, who was born in Montego Bay, developed early on and still has on the menu. Lacquered, unctuous pork belly, Swiss chard, baby carrots, and tender black-eyed peas are served with a purée of sweet potato enlivened by a capsicum-rich scotch-bonnet jelly. It's exemplary of Nine-Ten's style, with myriad diverse elements coming together in a balanced manner. Indulge dining ranchandcoast.com