Ranch & Coast Magazine

April 2026

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e more we watched, the more my husband and I wanted to explore Cornwall in person. Fortunately, when I contacted Louise West at Experience Cornwall Tours, she had time to create a custom itinerary for us. More good luck: we were able to make a reservation at the five-star Carbis Bay Hotel, and getting there was easy — just a scenic train ride from London to St. Erth and then a short taxi trip to Carbis Bay. When we arrived, we were escorted to Lodge 7, a gorgeous, multi-story suite just steps from calm, turquoise water and a soft sandy beach. We later learned that Carbis Bay Hotel hosted the G7 Summit in 2021, and Lodge 7 is where Prime Minister Trudeau and the Canadian delegation stayed. e top-notch quarters offer private hot tubs surrounded by colorful gardens. e hotel also has an award-winning spa and multiple dining options. Chef Adam Handling's Ugly Butterfly restaurant was originally located within Carbis Bay Hotel, but moved in 2025 to nearby Newquay, halfway between St. Ives and Port Isaac. It opened as Ugly Butterfly 2.0 in e Headland Hotel and quickly earned Michelin-Star status — well worth the 30-mile drive from our hotel. Handling is leading the way for what has become known as "elegant New British cuisine." He has a forward- thinking philosophy, stating, "ere is no such thing as an ugly butterfly, there is no such thing as food waste. Waste is all about perception." His creations are something to behold and not to be missed. At Claridge's in London, the maître d' shared his opinion: "Dining with Adam Handling in Cornwall is a must experience." We appreciate good food, and we also enjoy colorful flowers. Cornwall blooms in March through June, when gorgeous wildflowers cover the ground. Bluebells, primrose, and daffodils being the first to raise their heads, these beauties are joined by the dancing pink sea thrift, which covers the coastal trails. is is also a good time to see traditional Cornish hedges built of stone and earth. Some are prehistoric, many are from medieval times, and all 30,000 miles of hedges are important culturally and environmentally, flourishing with native plants as if they were a seed bank. Cornish hedgerows define property boundaries and their classic narrow roads demand extra care and alertness. In addition to creating a custom itinerary, Louise West chauffeured us from one fascinating place to another while she shared local history and insider information. I especially enjoyed our stop at Port Isaac, which starred as the fictional Port Wenn in the Doc Martin series. Having watched a multitude of episodes, it was fun to see Bert Large's Restaurant, Mrs. Tishell's shop, and most of all, Doc's surgery. e tide was out when we were there, which enabled us to walk on the wet sand floor of the big blue bay dotted with stranded fishing boats. Louise West is also well schooled on the inside stories of the books and movies set in the area, including Poldark, e Salt Path, e Shell Seekers, Jamaica Inn, Saving Grace, and Fisherman's Friends. e South West Coast Path has existed for centuries, and has been used by locals, travelers, smugglers, and customs officials. Today, the path covers the entire 296-mile Cornwall coastline. Prior to our visit, our La Jolla friend Tom Olson gave us an enthusiastic description of his experience walking south on the path from St. Ives. Having said that, I was most impressed with the stunning Minack eatre, the lifetime passion project of Rowena Cade, a truly amazing woman. She was born into an affluent English family in 1893, but World War I put an end to her genteel life in Cheltenham. In the 1920s, she moved to Cornwall, bought a rocky headland overlooking the sea for 100 pounds, and built the Minack House (meaning "rocky place" in the Cornish language) at the top of a cliff for herself and her mother. Her interest in the arts drew her to assist in a nearby production of A Midsummer Night's Dream. at success led Cade to envision the spectacular open-air amphitheater she hand-built with her gardener Billy Rawlings from 1931 to 1932. e initial rocky performance space was created, using only hand tools and the odd stick of dynamite, for a production of e Tempest in 1932. Today, the repertoire is extensive and includes dance, concert, and musicals from Les Misérables to Shakespeare in an open-air amphitheater descending cliff-side above the sea. e Minack eatre is in a subtropical zone and plants from across the world thrive there, adding to the joyful ambience of the space. If you have a passion for theater, as we have, you'll want to see a performance there. It's best to secure your tickets and make a lodging reservation in Penzance before purchasing your plane ticket. We liked the location, the hosts, and the fabulous breakfasts at the historic Chapel House. A few blocks away is Barbican Bistro, with good food options in an historic old-stone waterfront building. Some say the stone building was intended as part of the harbor's defenses (think Pirates of Penzance). e hit Masterpiece series Poldark, which we had never seen, was an important historical 18th- and 19th-century drama showing the life and times of that era and the great wealth and challenges associated with mining tin and copper in Cornwall. e UNESCO World Heritage Tin Coast that is traversed by some of the most scenic parts of the South West Coast Path is beautifully located south of St. Ives, ending before Land's End. We explored the beauty of the landscape and the huge role that Cornwall's metal resources played in advancing civilization, beginning over 4,000 years ago. e time period of Poldark coincides with the dramatic ups and downs of the mining industry, making a compelling brew for the success of the Poldark series. Now that we've started watching Poldark, we want to return and experience more of the region's majesty. Doc Martin brought us to Cornwall. e Minack eatre, the South West Coast Path, and miles of blooming Cornish hedgerows are sure to lure us back soon. detour destinations << ranchandcoast.com 76 APRIL 2026 RANCH & COAST MAGAZINE

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